Abrantes - Tomar - Cabacos (41 miles; 249 total)

 Every day we ride into another historic, hilltop city, slog up to the old city on top of a hill, and view another castle. The fortress at Abrantes was impressively large, but we were eagerly anticipating visiting the Castle of the Knights Templar in Tomar. Yes, the Dan Brown novels are a big influence.

Skimming Rick Steve's guide, the castle is modeled after the Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem. However, the castle was undergoing restoration and most of the tower was covered. We were able to walk the extensive walls, before returning to Tomar, visiting the site of the oldest synagogue in Portugal, and then having lunch.

From Rick Steves Portugal: (2nd paragraph is most interesting)

Towering above this charming, workaday town is a castle with an Oz-like circular church (or “oratory”) built 800 years ago by the Knights Templar. The church (modeled after the Dome of the Rock or the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem) is where knights would go, often on horseback, to be blessed before battle as they defended Portugal against the Moors, protected pilgrims heading for the Holy Land, or just empowered Portugal in the age of discovery. After the Order of the Knights Templar was dissolved across Europe in 1312, the Order in Portugal simply morphed into the Order of Christ and carried on. Henry the Navigator was a Grand Master, and later, King Manuel (who became a Grand Master in 1484) ordered much building here. Under his leadership, the stout early-medieval castle was decorated in exquisite Manueline decor.

The Knights Templar was a rich organization. It was both a popular Christian charity and Europe’s first great bank — pilgrims gave money in the west, were given a “check,” and could make withdrawals along the way as they ventured east. If they died, which was common, the Templars kept their estate. (Always read the fine print!) The Templars — you could call them the first multinational corporation — built and managed about a thousand forts, stretching from Portugal all the way to Jerusalem.

Hotel Conforto Latino, Abrantes. Unusual set-up. The street-level entrance is the 3rd floor, as the entire buildings on a steep hill. The hotel had rooms on this level, but other floors seemed unassociated with the hotel. 

Given the foggy morning, a relatively shorter day, and 8:30 am. start, we decided to visit the castle/fortress before leaving Abrantes. We had climbed to the same level but found many ups-and-downs through cobbled streets to get there. Many short, 20 degree slopes for several blocks with impatient drivers behind us.

Typical neighborhood church

Cathedral, one hill before the castle.




Abrantes overlook.



Perhaps slightly more than half of our lodgings offer breakfast, and there are many more options along the road. Two coffees with milk, cream puff pastry filled with custard, maple frosting, 3.10 euro. Amazing.


Lots of steep climbs between Abrantes and Tomar, but good road surfaces and moderate traffic.

Reservoir below Tomar.

Loved the way they tucked in this greenery-filled, upper story patio in Tomar.

Aqueduct built to supply water to the Castle of the Knights Templar & adjacent Convent of Christ.



How it looks without the scaffolding.

Elaborate entry.

The one street where Jews were permitted to live.


Synagogue excavation.



M

Daily specials: risotto and deep fried mackerel/sardines (whatever, they were little fish), and duck with potatoes and green beans cooked in the duck fat.

Often appropriate.

Dog of the Day. Most of the dogs we encountered today were barking at us as we rode or walked by.

NOT Dog of the Day. Just representative of the numerous barking, snarling guard dogs we encounter.

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