Portalegre to Abrantes ( 56 miles; 208 total)

 Today our route direction shifted as did the weather. We had been traveling mostly east and north to the border with Spain. Today we rode west, away from the border to central Portugal. The bright, sunny, days, climbing to 90F changed to 70F, intermittent light rain in the morning, then mid-80s in the afternoon. The route profile was generally down rollers, so we planned a 55 mile route to Abrantes. Nearly as much up as down. I'll insert the routes when I return home.

The most common question from fellow cyclists is: Why do a tour blog? Many reasons, perhaps in order of importance:

  • For me, mostly, to remember and recall the experience. Things I am sure I'll never forget fade quickly with each new experience.
  • Stay connected with family and friends. I hope they enjoy it.
  • Encourage others to attempt something similar. Whether a plan-your-own tour or fully supported, a bicycle is one of the best ways to experience another country, culture, and people. 
Hotel Mansao Alto Alentejo, Portalegre. Well situated inside the old city walls, after a steep 1 km climb.

Typical road, misty rain, minimal traffic, excellent surface, winding, up-and-down for the 1st hour out of Portalegre.

The rare time I was ahead of John.

We have determined that the numbers painted on the cork trees are not an owner's brand but the year the cork was last peeled/harvested. So this 2022 tree shows the deep red color, which darkens and grays as the bark regrows.


Crato was a small village we happened upon that had some history.

There are those who attribute to Flor da Rosa and its monastery the birthplace of the Holy Constable, D. Nuno Álvares Pereira , due to his father, D. Álvaro Gonçalves Pereira, having lived there when Prior do Crato, and a statue was erected in that locality in honor of the Holy Constable.

The Holy Constable



Monastery of Santa Maria de Flor da Rosa, now a paradouro.



Crato Village Laundry

Dog of the Day #1, Crato

Dog of the Day #2, Crato

Portugal's Carbon Sequestration Program. We rode through acres of eucalyptus forest in various states of maturity.

Disappointing Lunch Experience. About 15 miles from Abrantes, John definitely wanted lunch. We stopped at one establishment that advertised sandwiches, hamburgers, etc. They had nothing but coffee and beer and sent us across the street to the Cubano restaurant. We discovered they were co-owned. No English speaker and no menu. After some stumbling about, we agreed to some pork and chips/fries but no price.

The custom is to put olives and bread on every table, and one is charged if you eat any of it. We found they charge for it whether you do eat it or not. John read that you need to ask them to take it away if you don't want it. Neither of us were interested in bread and olives with a large order of fries coming. She refused to take it away. 

Neither of us wanted a large meal, as the heat was building. We subsequently surmised that the entire meal was like a plat de jour in France, a fixed offering. Here it must have been the pork steak, fries, bread, olives, drink, and desert. Too early for beer for me, John had one, and we both refused desert. We were both charged 10 euros each. Live and learn, different customs.

John tried to pay with every one of his cards but none worked, even though they worked everywhere else. The owner's daughter came out, to help with the English, but no avail. John paid with his last 20-euro note, and it took the man about 10 minutes to produce a receipt from his cash register. Just out-dated gear.

Finish your day with another tapestry.








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