São Martinho do Porto to Peniche (30 miles; 579 total) (October 1 ride)

Not a difficult day, riding small roads, many short but steep climbs, with 5 miles of sandy road thrown in for interest. We have been fortunate with the weather, often starting with a light jacket for the first 30 minutes, then warming on the climbs, with high temperatures in the low-70s. No rain, so a perfect time of year to tour in Portugal.

Our Sao Martinho do Porto Lodging. Our room was in a private home, compete with swimming pool, with a grandmotherly host. She offered use of her refrigerator and breakfast the next morning. The home was reasonably easy to find, situated on the slope above the harbor.


More typical riding through national forest on excellent roads. John found on-line that 5% of Portugal's exports are wood pulp, for paper. The major pulping tree is eucalyptus, and non-native tree that burns easily, contributing to mer forest fires than the native pine.


Inland roads tend to be rolling. When the roads lead to coastal towns, we usually have a nice downhill in followed by a long steep uphill on the way out.


Portugal's Atlantic coast soil is mostly white sand dunes.

New divided highway leading by new coastal housing for the wealthy.

The Road to Baleal. Despite having our mapping app set for "paved surfaces only", we were directed to 5 miles of packed sand, washboard, and occasionally drifting soft sand on the only road to Baleal. Baleal proved to be a major surfing spot, where lost of 20-somethings seemed to be living on "Daddy's money." We stopped there for a light lunch.


Some of the widest, clean beaches we have ever seen.




Reception Cat of the Day. Mario ran the hotel in a family-owned building. Despite his marine biology degree, Portuguese wages are so low that the hotel is more profitable. Minimum wage is approximately 750 euros per month. The Siamese cat was "fostered", and Marion noted that once fostered, they could not let the cat go. Very friendly greeter.


Averio House. Reception and bike storage; our rooms were around the corner and up one flight of stairs.



Peniche Fort and Castle. Peniche is on a peninsula, with the point occupied by a large, double- and triple-walled fort. Currently closed for renovation.


Dog of the Day



Star-Wall Configuration suggests an 1800s design. The angles and lower wall slopes were designed to better withstand cannon balls, and the star shape offered a fire from two angles to repel attacking troops.

Colorful Peniche Homes Overlooking the fort.



Peniche Craft Brew Pub. Run by a Polish couple who made their money in the USA, this electrician turned pub owner said it was a passion project for his wife, sweethearts since high school in Poland.

#1 Dog of the Day. Had his own stool but not a beer fan.


Peniche Cathedral.

Portugal and Spain both had significant communist party organizations.

 

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